Located in Narinda, Dhaka’s oldest and largest Christian cemetery, known as the “Dhaka Christian Cemetery, Wari,” holds centuries of history beneath its crumbling tombstones. From employees of the East India Company to Dutch, Armenian, and Chinese nationals — and even mass graves of British soldiers killed in World War II — this historic site has borne witness to many eras.

Today, however, the cemetery stands in a tragic state of disrepair, stirring grief among members of the Christian community. Once a symbol of heritage, this nearly 500-year-old burial ground now seems to mourn its own condition. Visitors who came to offer prayers during the sacred Easter Sunday were heartbroken by what they encountered.

The cemetery, left largely unguarded and desolate, has become a breeding ground for crime. Known as a hotspot for drug addicts and dealers, Wari Cemetery is now more infamous for illegal activities than for its sacred past. With just two caretakers—who also serve as grave diggers and earn only BDT 8,000 each—maintaining such a massive site has become virtually impossible.

Caretaker Ishan Marma expressed his deep frustration, stating that local troublemakers from the neighboring Harijan colony regularly occupy parts of the cemetery to sell and consume drugs. The area has even become a hub for extortion and the division of illicit gains. Despite informing Father Albert of the Cathedral office, Ishan was simply advised to “avoid trouble.”

Locals are well aware of the criminal activities taking place within the cemetery grounds. As a result, many now fear visiting the site in broad daylight, even for prayer.

Officer-in-Charge Abu Shahed Khan of the Gandaria Police Station told BanglaBhumi, “The cemetery falls at the outer edge of our jurisdiction, making constant monitoring difficult. Still, we plan to increase patrols to ensure better security, although no formal complaints have been filed by the cemetery authority so far.”

Local residents claim that the cemetery was once much larger, but parts of its land have allegedly been grabbed to build the Salauddin Memorial Hospital. They believe the original land details can be found in CS land records.

Upon entering the site, one is met with a small path running beside the caretaker’s room, leading toward a grand white archway. Lined on both sides are rows of ancient tombs — some even predating European conquest of Bengal. Many epitaphs are now illegible, weathered by time, covered in moss, and missing dates or names. The ambiance evokes a haunting stillness, a silent reminder of the finality of life.

While several European colonial powers came to the Indian subcontinent, only the Armenians settled as true immigrants — not to exploit but to trade and live. Most settled in areas like Armanitola and Narinda. Though Christian, the Armenians eventually adopted burial practices similar to local Muslims.

Next to the cemetery once stood Dhaka’s first church built for the Christian community, now long gone. Portuguese Augustinians likely built the church sometime before 1624, when missionary Padre Sebastian Manrique visited Dhaka. French traveler Jean-Baptiste Tavernier (1666) and Niccolò Manucci also wrote about the church, supporting this claim. The current cemetery is believed to be the original “church graveyard.”

Many notable figures lie buried here. Reverend Joseph Paget, a minister from Calcutta, passed away at 26 in 1724. Nathaniel Hall, head of an English factory, died in 1725.

The cemetery even contains memorials to soldiers killed in the Sepoy Mutiny, such as Henry Smith (killed on November 22), Neil MacMullen and James Moors (died November 23), and William Esden and Robert Brown (died November 24).

Also buried here is Nicholas Pogose, the Armenian zamindar who founded Pogose School and was a director of the Dhaka Bank in 1846 and later became a commissioner of Dhaka Municipality. His son Paul is buried beside him.

One of the most beloved figures buried here is Dr. Alexander Simpson, a European physician who served as the Superintendent of Mitford Hospital (founded 1858). He died at age 44 and is still fondly remembered by the people of Dhaka.

Missionary Bishop Heber once mentioned that Paget’s grave was the oldest still standing in the cemetery. He also described the tomb of Wanshi Qua, a Chinese Christian who died on September 4, 1796, and whose tomb was built by fellow countryman Wana Chou.

Another notable structure is the domed, octagonal tomb of the mysterious “Colombo Sahib, servant of the Company,” complete with carved columns and engraved stone plaques.

Currently under the care of St. Mary’s Cathedral, the cemetery continues to deteriorate due to a lack of maintenance and public neglect. A precious piece of Dhaka’s history is slowly vanishing before our eyes.

Bishop Heber, nearly 200 years ago, had written in awe:

“At first glance, the entire place seemed so wild and distinct that I regretted not having enough time to sketch it.”

On Easter Sunday, April 20, visitors expressed deep sadness at the site’s condition.

Rebecca Samadder, who came all the way from Uttara, said,

“Today is a sacred day. I came to pray for my late parents, but my heart broke seeing this disaster. This 500-year-old cemetery has become a haven for drugs and thugs. The paths are broken, the place stinks of garbage. We need urgent action.”

Divya Rosario added,

“Where is the money allocated for maintaining the country’s largest Christian cemetery? Is the Catholic office using funds properly? On this sacred day, I came to pray at my relatives’ graves only to return home heartbroken by the poor infrastructure and mismanagement.”

Father Albert of the Kakrail Cathedral admitted,

“Due to our financial limitations, we cannot maintain the cemetery properly. We’ve appealed to the government many times, but there has been no response. A small portion of funds has come for restoring Colombo Sahib’s tomb, and Baptists help annually, but major renovations require a large amount of money. Only 35 patrons remain, and among them, only 10–15 provide yearly donations.”

Visitors and members of the local Christian community, however, claim that international funds sent for restoration are not being used transparently by the Cathedral office. They suspect financial irregularities in the management of the site and demand government intervention.

They hope the caretaker government under Dr. Yunus will soon take effective action to protect the fundamental rights of the Christian community and preserve this monumental heritage site.