The Timeless Bond with Loitta Fish

We had an elder brotherly acquaintance who could turn any conversation toward loitta fish. Politics, sports, or family matters—it didn’t matter. Suddenly, he would say, “That’s all fine, but this morning I bought five kilos of loitta fish. Your bhabi and I cleaned, chopped, and cooked it together.”

Then he would launch into the recipe as if reading from a cookbook: “For five kilos of loitta, you’ll need about a kilo of onions, some garlic, green chilies, tomatoes, and coriander. First, fry the onions until golden. Then add turmeric, chili powder, and green chilies, followed by the tomatoes. Once the spices are cooked down, add the fish and let it simmer until the oil rises to the top. The fish settles at the bottom and becomes tender enough to melt in your mouth.”

As he described it, his mouth would water, and he would swallow repeatedly as though the dish was already served before him.

But this affection for loitta is not limited to him alone—for people of Chattogram, loitta is more than just food; it’s culture. Fresh or dried, loitta has been part of the region’s kitchens and songs for generations, and its popularity has even crossed borders.

Loitta in Folk Culture

Local folk singer Abdul Gafur Hali once sang:
“Chattogram folk eat rice with loitta’s soft flesh,
Slipping easily down the throat.”

In Chattogram, loitta shutki (dried loitta, known locally as funi) is often cooked with potatoes or taro stems, making an entire meal by itself. Unlike other fish, loitta isn’t restricted to a particular season, though fishermen say the catch is heaviest—and cheapest—just after the monsoon and at the start of winter.

Both bhuna (dry fry with spices) and rasa (gravy-based curry) versions are popular in the port city. Regardless of style, onions, green chilies, coriander, tomatoes, ginger paste, turmeric, and chili are considered must-haves in the cooking process.

At the market, sellers even praise loitta in playful ways. I once heard a fishmonger calling out, “Take this—soft as rasgulla!” The sweet comparison instantly drew customers.

Beyond Borders: From Chattogram to Mumbai

Loitta isn’t only beloved in Chattogram. In Mumbai, it’s famously known as Bombay Duck or Bombil. Vendors once called out “Bombil-tak” in Marathi, which the British misheard and simplified into “Bombay Duck.”

According to one story, dried loitta was often transported across India in Bombay postal trucks—hence the name.

In Mumbai’s Parsi community, loitta enjoys special status, appearing in popular songs and dishes like Khara Bumla—crispy outside, soft inside. Even Anglo-Indian cooking relies on dried loitta powder for flavor.

Loitta in Britain

By the late 18th century, loitta had already traveled to Britain. In 1795, a Parsi merchant gifted half a ton of dried loitta to Bombay’s English governor, who later introduced it to the UK. The British developed such a taste for it that BBC once reported an annual consumption of 13 tons.

However, when harmful salmonella was found in imported dried loitta in 1996, the EU banned it. This sparked a “Save Bombay Duck” campaign led by British businessman David Delaney, who fought for four years to lift the ban. Eventually, in 2000, the EU allowed imports again under strict hygienic packaging rules.

Ugly Looks, Rich Taste

Loitta may not win beauty contests. With its big mouth, jelly-like pink flesh, and strong fishy smell, many first-time buyers are put off. Yet its taste and nutrition make it stand apart.

Scientifically known as Harpadon nehereus, this lizardfish can grow up to 25 cm and is found in the Bay of Bengal, Arabian Sea, and along many Asian coasts. Rich in Omega-3 fatty acids, protein, iron, and calcium, loitta is said to lower risks of heart disease and cancer, while supporting bone health and fighting anemia.

Rising Catches, Rising Prices

In Bangladesh, annual loitta catches have grown from about 50–60,000 tons a decade ago to nearly 70–80,000 tons today. Government restrictions on fishing during spawning seasons may have played a role in sustaining stock.

Yet prices have also climbed. Not long ago, it sold for Tk 70–80 per kilo. Now, in Chattogram markets, the price hovers around Tk 150–180.

A Modern Worry: Plastic Pollution

One alarming problem loitta now faces is plastic contamination. A 2020 study by Bangladeshi researchers found microplastics inside the stomachs of loitta. Since the fish is often dried and cooked whole, this raises health risks unless care is taken to remove the stomach before cooking. Experts warn that without stronger control over plastic pollution, this beloved fish—and those who eat it—remain at risk.

👉 In short, loitta is not just a fish—it’s a cultural bridge connecting Chattogram kitchens, Mumbai’s street vendors, and even British dining tables. From rustic shutki bhuna to crispy Parsi bumla fry, its journey shows how food can carry heritage across seas.